ITALY - The Amalfi Coast

TRIP OUTLINE
One of the beauties of the Amalfi coast is that the many sites of interest are all within easy walking distance of each other, so there is no need to move hotel. We are therefore based, for the whole week, at a charming little hotel in Scala, high in the hills, overlooking Ravello and the surrounding valleys. Our day walks, though not long in terms of distance, can be strenuous at times as we either ascend – or descend – old stairways that have been used, for many years, to traverse this picturesque region. In the second half of the week there’s a free day, allowing time to visit Pompeii, relax, read, swim, or make your own discoveries.

FULL ITINERARY
SAT: DAY 1: SALERNO-SCALA
Our trip begins at Salerno Station before transferring over to our hotel located in the exquisite hillside town of Scala. This afternoon we’ll take a short walk into the village, where it’s easy to conjure up images of medieval life as we stroll through the alleyways, stairways, and along ancient roofed passages. Before dinner, we’ll meet with our guide for a short introduction and a briefing on what lies ahead for the next week. (D)

SUN: DAY 2: RAVELLO
After breakfast we walk up to Ravello, with unequalled views over the Gulf of Salerno. The French novelist, André Gide, once described the town as being ‘closer to the sky than the seashore’. Indeed, its lofty position and sunny, dry climate has appealed for centuries to writers, artists, musicians, and travellers. Boccaccio, D. H. Lawrence and Wagner are among the more notable guests who have succumbed to its spells. Ravello also boasts two magnificent villas: the superb 11th century Villa Rufolo, once a Papal residence and the Villa Cimbrone, a sumptuous 20th century mansion with fabulous gardens and spectacular views over the Gulf of Salerno. Total walking: 10 kms. (BLD)

MON: DAY 3: PONTONE, TORRE DELLO ZIRO, ATRANI
After breakfast we walk through the village of Scala, and on, through the delightful piazza in the centre of Minuta, to the sleepy cliff-town of Pontone, once a defensive stronghold for the surrounding towns. We walk through the village, past its pretty little chapel, and begin our ascent onto the spur that contains the Torre (tower) dello Ziro. We walk along a rocky spine, past shady pine trees and through fields of wildflowers, and enjoy stunning views across the Valle del Dragone to the gardens and villas of Ravello. A series of ascents and descent eventually brings us to the ruins of the Torre dello Ziro, an ancient lookout that once provided an early warning system for the powerful Amalfi Republic. From here we enjoy dramatic views of Amalfi, Atrani, and the stunning coastline. We retrace our steps and then head down to the delightful coastal village of Atrani, with its rabbit warren of alleys and a fine church. We can stop here for a drink, overlooking the sea, before catching the bus back to our hotel. Total walking: approx 12 kms. (BLD)

TUE: DAY 4: PONTONE, VELLE DELLE FERRIERE, AMALFI
We walk back down to Pontone and then along good, sometimes shaded, paths through lemon and citrus groves to the Valle delle Ferriere nature reserve, a wooded area with tall chestnuts trees, natural springs and waterfalls. The high ridges of Mount Cervigliano surround the valley, and we enjoy stunning views over the Gulf of Amalfi. We then continue down to Amalfi itself, a descent of some 400 metres, where there is time for lunch and to explore this charming coastal town, once an important naval power. Every street hides
a charming square, and we take time to visit the Piazza dei Dogi, still called Piazza dei Ferrari, due to the blacksmith shops that used to line the square. From here most streets lead to the sea, where we find the entrance of the Antichi Arsenali. Another street takes us to the Vagliendola quarter, with its tower houses and the famous Hotel dei Cappuccini — once a monastery called San Pietro della Canonica, founded in the 13th century. If time allows, we’ll also visit the fascinating Museo della Carta (maps) and Museo della Agricoltura. In the late afternoon we return to Scala by bus. Total walking: approx 10 kms. (BLD)

WED: DAY 5: FREE DAY/OPTIONAL VISIT TO POMPEII
Today is a free day. Some may wish to take the opportunity to visit Pompeii, while others may wish to relax at the pool and/or take the local bus down to Amalfi for further exploration. For those going to Pompeii, you set off after breakfast for a guided tour of this outstanding archaeological site. In 79AD, a massive eruption, at nearby Mt. Vesuvius, caused the city to be totally buried under a 6 metre ‘blanket’ of ash and rock. Due to its fine state of preservation the excavations now give us an extraordinarily real image of daily life in a Roman city. Pompeii was ‘rediscovered’ in the 16th century, but excavation only began in 1748, and has since continued systematically up to the present time. You spend most of the day here, seeing the villas, temples, theatres and markets that once bustled with life in ancient times. In the afternoon you return to the hotel for dinner and overnight. (BD)

THU: DAY 6: CONCA DEI MARINI
We walk along a path hugging the cliffs above the Amalfi coastline with tremendous vistas across the sea, arriving in the town of Conca dei Marini. Once proud and combative, it was a Roman ally during the Punic Wars. During the peace that followed, its war galleys were turned into trading vessels, making the town wealthier and more opulent than Amalfi. In 1543, Turkish pirates attacked and pillaged the town, reducing it to rubble and ending its previous glory. Our walk takes us through the higher town, nestled among olive trees and prickly pear, down to the maritime village, a sleepy fishing port. Not to be missed is the Convent of Santa Rosa, where the nuns invented the delicious local specialty sfogliatelle, a flaky pastry filled with custard. You can also visit the Grotta dello Smeraldo ("Emerald Cave"), perhaps the most lovely of the sea caves that honeycomb the coast, with stalactites and sparkling green gem-like waters. We return to Scala by bus for dinner. Total walking: approx 10 kms. (BLD)

FRI: DAY 7: POSITANO
Today we head to beautiful Positano. If the weather is kind we will travel by boat; if not, we’ll take the bus. On arrival we walk along the fabulous Sentiero degli Dei (footpath of the Gods), a five hour hike to Positano, through groves of Italian cypress and fields of wildflowers, past ancient stone huts, and across precipitous hillsides and narrow ledges overlooking the sea. We reach the Vallone di Grarelle, with its many caves and deep coves, and continue to Nocelle, a picturesque suburb of Positano. A walk through the village brings us to the old footpath that leads to Montepertuso, before crossing the Vallone Porto, a deep gorge with striking limestone walls. From here we take the old steps down through olive groves and vineyards to the centre and the beach of Positano. It is the setting of Positano that sets it apart as the most beautiful – and now the most fashionable - town on the Amalfi coast. It is full of brightly painted houses covered in bougainvillea, and if ever there was a ‘picture-postcard’ town, this is it! We return to our hotel for dinner. Total walking: approx 14 kms. (BLD)

SAT: DAY 8: DEPARTURE
After breakfast you are transferred to Salerno Train Station, arriving around 10:30 hrs, where your trip ends. (B)

NOTES
Price includes: English-speaking Local Leader. Services of Dave Best as Tour Escort. Arrival and departure transfers and other local bus transfers, as indicated. Twin-share or single room accommodation with private facilities. All meals as indicated in the itinerary (except lunch on Day 5).

Not Included: Visa fees. Insurance (compulsory on all trips). Additional meals. Drinks. Entrance Fees. Optional tour to Pompeii. Spending of a personal nature, e.g. laundry, souvenirs, phone calls etc.

Accommodation: Our beautiful 3-star hotel is a family-run affair and the friendly staff goes out of its way to make you feel at home. The hotel is split into two sections; one section has comfortable rooms and a lovely pool. The other houses the main restaurant, with additional accommodation and panoramic views.

Food: All dinners are included and you can expect a variety of tasty, hearty dishes, with plenty of pasta to help you get through a day of walking. A typical breakfast includes
bread/rolls, cheese, fruit, jam, coffee/tea. Picnic lunches are prepared by the hotel or the tour leader and shared out among participants.

Additional Expenses: For meals not included you should allow between €25-€35 for a full menu including house wine; €10-€15 will buy you a simple lunch. In addition you should allow for drinks and any personal shopping you may wish to do. The cost of the Pompeii trip depends on the number of people taking it. It does not operate for less than 5 people. For a group of 5 or more the price is €100 per person and you can book this locally. This includes the cost of a private guide at the site, entrance fees and return transport from Scala. For other entrance fees, such as the Duomo, in Amalfi, Villa Cimbrone, in Ravello, or the Emerald Cave at Conce dei Marini, allow around €30.

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Italy: The Amalfi Coast
Dates and costs
25 August to 1 September 2010
A$2150 (per person twin-share). Single Supplement: $380, starting and finishing in Salerno